Brugnato in Fiore

    

Each year, the small Ligurian town of Brugnato [pronounced 'broon-yato'], transforms its streets into floral fan-fare. Many towns and villages across Italy will have such festivals and if you get the chance to see one, it is truly remarkable.

Get Lucky in La Spezia

We have a friend that just opened an Inn/Rooms called "Il Quadrifoglio", which means four-leaf clover in Italian. It is less than a five minute walk from the La Spezia Centrale train station, which takes you to the Cinque Terre in less than 10  minutes and to Lerici and Portovenere by bus in under 30 minutes.  Her rooms are clean, colorful and brand-spanking new! The rooms are climate controlled, have flat screen TVs, mini-fridge and free Wi-Fi all included for an unbelievably low price! I have tried to tell her to charge more for such nice rooms, but she prefers to under-sell her competition.

Clean bathrooms are at the top of my list for staying somewhere and I can vouch for these sparkling new bathrooms (also because my husband helped build them).

Pretty nice, huh? With all the amenities, its fantastic location to the Cinque Terre, Lerici and Portovenere and prices from 60-80 Euros a night, there is no reason to stay elsewhere!

Giusi does not speak English, so for more information, or to make a reservation in English, contact me.

Il Quadrifoglio                                                                                       
Via Agostino Oldoini 45                                                            Tel: 346.2126.797
La Spezia                                                http://www.affittacamereilquadrifoglio.it/

Bar Dell'Amore

Today was a joyous occasion in the Cinque Terre and another step in providing for the people of Vernazza. It was the opening of the Bar dell'Amore, located along the Via dell'Amore, or Walkway of Love (the hiking path linking Riomaggiore with Manarola). 

With breathtaking views from every table, you can now take a relaxing break from your journey with a glass of local wine and a plate of munchies for an afternoon apperetivo, or start out the day with fresh air, clear turquoise seas, beautiful vistas of the Cinque Terre, a freshly baked muffin and a creamy cappuccino.

Buy some fresh lemons from their tree-can't get more local than that!

You may have seen this bar if you been to the Cinque Terre recently, but it has been closed for nearly three years after problems with the park officials. But because the people of Vernazza have lost their businesses, their jobs and their livelihoods, the park has been working to provide new jobs and opportunities.

Run by four friends from Vernazza and one from Riomaggiore, the Bar dell'Amore is back in business. Stefano, Chilli, Silvia, Luca and Matteo have worked hard to clean the place up and make it new and they are happy to greet their new visitors!

They have it all in this little place, so whether you want to buy a bottle of water or beer; a postcard or a guidebook; a little something to nosh on or full sandwich; a locket to add to the Wall of Love, or to enjoy one of Stefano's cocktails, make sure you make a stop at Bar dell'Amore!

--------------UPDATE-----------------

Due to the rockslide in 2012, the closure of the Via del'Amore has closed the bar. It is accessible from the Manarola station, but the building is closed.

5 Terre Is Open for Business

Posted from Cultural Comments:

As we head towards the spring season, many are wondering if the Cinque Terre is open, if the hikes are hikeable and if it's even worth keeping the Cinque Terre in their travel plans. The answer is an overwhelming YES!!!

Before going into details, here is an overview: The trains are running on normal, regular schedules with stops to all five villages without interruption or access controls. Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia had little to no damage from the floods and all shops, restaurants and hotels/rooms are open for business.

Disaster Strikes Vernazza!

Posted from culturalcomments.blogspot.com:

  

   
It has been almost a week since the mountain above Vernazza came crashing down upon this picturesque village. Tuesday, October 25, started as most mornings do, with errands and preparation for the lunch hour. The first of the rainy season’s storms was pouring down rain as usual for a late October day. The town’s people were about their business, going to the bank at the top of the hill, having caffé at the Blue Marlin Bar and my father-in-law was setting up for a long day of work remodeling a building on the mountain side. Everything seemed normal, but the rain was coming down so hard, the street had turned into a rushing stream. My father-in-law and the other workers had problems operating their equipment in such heavy rain, so they wisely decided to call it a day and head home.
    

      
The rain kept pouring down until the village became a rushing river. The cars in the parking lot above town began to get swept up by the water. The strong current carried cars and trucks down into town like they were nothing but toys. Some locals looked on from their balconies with disbelief as their cars rushed by below them.
  

  
And the rain kept coming down…until the unthinkable happened. Around 3pm, the mountain above gave way and like a dirt tsunami, the earth plowed down, sweeping up everything in its path, pushing around the corner in a rush of flowing water, rocks, mud and cars. Smashing into the walls as the road turns and bottlenecks, a house collapsed from the pressure. The flow instantly eliminated the children’s playground before smashing into the bridge of the train station, burying the tracks and filling the second story tunnels with debris. The concrete and iron was no match for the fury of the landslide. It continued on, barreling down Via Roma, engulfing every business along the way, sparing nothing and no one.
  

   
Some people had to flee to avoid getting carried away; many made it to safety—some did not. Some saw their loved ones swept away before their very eyes. The raging landslide continued on, destroying what was left of this Unesco World Heritage Site. The monstrous earth poured into the piazza like a wild animal set loose and dumped all the cars, dirt, debris and boats into the sea.
    

Notice the street lamp and telephone lines in relation to the ground

   
A path of destruction lay in its wake.
   

The Blue Marlin Bar, destroyed.
   

The little bottega food store, destroyed.
   

This is a two-story portico

  
The Gianni Franzi Ristorante, destroyed.
   

This guy is standing in front of a balcony!

Everything on the ground floor, from the top of the mountain to the end of the piazza is destroyed. The debris filled the narrow street of the village up to the second floor, burying the ground floor as if it never existed. With all the doors buried below 9-10 feet of debris, people needed to climb out of their windows and balconies to get out.

   

   
All roads in and out of Vernazza were washed away, the train tracks buried and people were left with no water, no gas, no electricity and no cell service. The outside world had no news, no contact, no information at all. In a terrifying wave of destruction, Vernazza had been completely severed from the rest of the world.
     

The ground is above the first story

   
The following day, news slowly seeped into La Spezia, the nearby city, as a few survivors arrived by boat. Those of us with friends and family in Vernazza were aware that the storm had cause terrible damage, but we had no idea of the scope of devastation. Emergency boats were sent with first-aid supplies and drinking water. As word got out, volunteers started coming with boots, shovels and plenty of cigarettes.
   

   
By Friday, the protezione civile (Italy's version of a National Guard) started an organized response with registered volunteers, earth-moving equipment and rescue helicopters. For days and nights people have been working non-stop to dig Vernazza out of the rubble.

    
My heart was crushed to think about what my friends in Vernazza were going through and to see the images and hear the stories made it that much more devastating. As of now, there are still four people missing.
    

   
Rick Steves, who can be credited for putting the Cinque Terre on the map, has written a lovely piece in his November Newsletter on the shocking devastation. He put it best when he said:

“as I read emails from Vernazzan friends and look at the horrifying photos and videos of the disaster, I feel I've lost a friend. In fact, looking at the photos — store fronts ripped off and fishing boats crumbled on rocks — I get this ghastly feeling that these are photos of a crime scene...and that nature has murdered my friend.” 

   
But from the depths of despair for a treasure lost to destruction, rays of hope begin to shine through.
   

   
Only 120 hours after the landslide, the river that had reclaimed it’s original route through town has been redirected, the ground is now visible in the piazza and the rail lines are getting cleared.
    

   
Firefighters, civil protection, the Red Cross and countless volunteers have joined the locals in the rescue effort. My husband joined them this weekend helping to clear the debris, and even though he says it will take years to bring Vernazza back to it’s glory, I feel hopeful and positive for a bright future.
    

    
Messages of support and love have poured in from all over the world. Facebook has been a great way for people to share information, photos and support. It has also been the only means of detailed information due to almost zero news coverage on Vernazza. Those of us on the outside have been able stay updated thanks to people on the ground like Giuliano Pucci, who took these photos, and Facebook groups like Riomaggiorese Nel Mondo.
   

   
Of the five villages, only Vernazza and Monterosso have sustained damages. Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are fine. For more information and pictures on the extensive damages to Monterosso, visit Little Paradiso Blog. There were also several other towns with massive damage and flooding throughout Liguria and western Tuscany. Towns like Brugnato and Aulla, which are located along the flooded Magra river, were nearly destroyed and left without electricity, gas and water. They each have their own rescue efforts in full swing.
   

    

Vernazza has made a place in people’s hearts all over the planet and many have been asking how they can help. If you would like to donate money to help the victims and the rebuilding of Vernazza and Monterosso, a fund has been set up by the Municipality of Monterosso at their official bank, Carispezia of Levanto.

-For transfers within Italy: Codice IBAN: IT64 W060 3049 8700 0004 6275 829

-For Transfers outside of Italy: SWIFT: CRFIIT2S365 

 *Please make a note on your transfer: “Help for Monterosso and Vernazza”.

The Italian Red Cross has also set up a disaster relief fund for the entire area affected by this storm and you can donate by credit card directly on their website: http://cri.it/flex/FixedPages/IT/Donazioni.php/L/EN

-Select “Emergency Tuscany and Liguria” 

There has been many requests for donating specifically to Vernazza, and a new organization has been set up called "Per Vernazza Fortuna"

Funds can be wired directly to the following account:

UBI Bank of San Giorgio

Via Chiodo, 115

La Spezia, Italy

IBAN: IT37QZ552610730000000001616

BIC: BPGGITG1

SWIFT: BLOPIT22

***For more information on Per Vernazza Furtuna, click here.***
     

    
But The most important thing you can do to help is to support the 5 Terre with your business. The shops and restaurants are destroyed for the time being, but all the rooms are located well above any damage and should be unscathed. Vernazza should be open for business next season, so come back and visit soon and tell everyone you know to visit!
   

    
Sunday afternoon the workers were rewarded with a hot lunch all together in their piazza. Spirits are up and there is such a strong commradery to bring Vernazza back. The best thing they have though, is the amazing Italian heart and soul of the people and the generous outpouring of love and support to keep them going strong. Vernazza will come back from this and continue to win the hearts of new generations to come. FORZA RAGAZZI!!!
   

   

Medievalis - Anno Domini 1226

For four days in mid-August, the medieval city of Pontremoli comes alive with their age-old ways as the host of a Medieval festival.

 

Even though Pontremoli is located in Tuscany, it is one of the most important cities of the Lunigiana, an ancient region comprising eastern Liguria and north-western Tuscany. It’s castle, Castello di Piagnaro, is also one of the restored and tourable “Castles of the Lunigiana”.

This unassuming village has quite the historical past. Pontremoli has been around for thousands of years, but it’s heyday was during medieval times when it’s central location and abundant river put in the middle of everything. 

It was a top stop for pilgrims, the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Emperor Frederick II. Even Pier delle Vigne, a character in Dante’s Inferno, passed through the streets of Pontremoli, albeit in chains. 

This festival fills the narrow cobblestone streets with vendors from all walks of life. From basic antique shops to specialty handmade goods. 

Several vendors offered unique, handmade jewelry. 

 

Hand woven wool hats and scarves, including the odd, pointed hats that were seen throughout town.

These were very interesting masks, made from formed leather. They varied from simple, butterfly shaped masks to ornately decorated and painted ghoulish masks. 

One of the highlights for me was “Lo Torneo de Bandiera” or the tournament of flags. A few of the local towns gave quite a show with their band and flags. But Pontremoli was by far the best group.

The pounding beat of the drums accompanied by flutes and a vibrant display of flags flying through the air was quite enjoyable. 

Making our way to the castle was a bit of a hike, but the little alleys led to stunning views. 

The castle was a bustle with activity. They had two areas with food, wine and local artisan beer, live music and an avian demonstration.
  

They had an impressive selection from eagles to falcons to several breeds of owl, including an endangered white owl (click on the photo below for a better view).

  

 

After exploring the castle a bit, we got some traditional focaccette and headed back down to town. Even into the night the festivities were going strong. 

On Sunday, the final evening they had a big show of all the costumed participants from knights to commoners at the castle and to finish the festival, fireworks over the town.

Don’t miss next years festival!

Mediovalis Medieval Event                                                    Mid-August
Castello del Piagnaro                                                              www.medievalis.org
Pontremoli (MS)